Amsterdam City Guide - overview

Lively, lascivious Amsterdam has a unique atmosphere that belies the caricature of the dour Dutch.

Radiating out from the Dam Square, the historic centre of the city is ringed by quaint canals and cobbled streets, thronged with bicycles, tourists, houseboats, students, and street performers. The city wears two faces: on one it smiles and beckons hedonistic youth with its notorious Red Light District and liberal view of marijuana use, while on the other it offers some of Europe's finest museums and art galleries.

For the tourist the joy of Amsterdam is its compactness. The old part of town is a pleasure to explore on foot, strolling across ancient bridges and down narrow lanes past gabled houses, dropping in to browse in inviting souvenir boutiques crammed with blue and white Delft china and wooden clogs. Pavement cafes and cosy bars offer rest and refreshment. An alternative is to take a circular canal-boat cruise and see the city from the water, peering in on the lives of the locals who live on houseboats lining the waterways.

At night even the most conservative visitor is drawn by the lively atmosphere of the infamous Red Light District, known as De Wallen, which is bounded by the Oudezijds Voorburgwal and Oudeziujds Achterburgwal canals near the Dam Square. Here prostitutes display their charms in brightly lit shop windows and touts encourage passers-by to view raunchy floorshows. The best nightclubs, bars, and the theatres and cinemas are mainly to be found in the bustling Leidesplein and Rembrandtplein.

Getting around: The central area of Amsterdam is fairly compact and easy to get around on foot. When going further a field, there is a good, inexpensive network of trams, buses and metro lines that all converge at Centraal Station, as well as canal boats and a free ferry service across the IJ Canal. The GVB public transport office at Centraal Station has route maps and a guide to the ticketing system, which is based on zones with the same ticket valid on buses, metros and trams. The most widely used type of travel pass is the Strippenkart; a strip gets stamped every time one boards and remains valid for unlimited transfers within an hour (eight-strip day card: EUR6.40; 15-strip card: EUR6.70; 45-strip card: EUR18.90). After midnight there are night buses that run from Centraal Station to most parts of the city. Taxis are among the most expensive in Europe and renting a car or driving one's own to Amsterdam is not recommended; it is better to park it outside the city and use public transport to get into the centre and around. An ideal way to get around is the Dutch way - by bicycle. There are several rental agencies around town (about EUR7 daily or EUR30 weekly), but be aware that theft is common and make sure that both the frame and a wheel is locked to something fixed and solid.